Using the Pro50 Torch to Bend Acrylic
For another project we are working on we have some 1/8″ clear acrylic we are looking at. As long as it was on the desk I thought I’d try forming it with the Pro50 and the torch head. Sure enough, after a pretty short time – 15 seconds? I was able to put a nice free form 90º angle in the material. The ends of the corners swelled out a little with the bend.
I also took a small strip and bent it along the cut axis and again got a little swelling on the inside corner and thinning on the outside corner. This one didn’t look as nice as the first one because of the orientation of the bend. Either way though it was really easy to bend. I look forward to doing some localized forming and shaping with it too.
Solder Paste on Zinc Die Casting
So, the question of the day was will the solder paste solder zinc alloy. Zinc alloy is pretty broad range of materials and so the first answer was – I don’t know. That’s pretty weak so we found a zinc die cast part we use and tested it. This was a Zinc AG40A die cast, unplated zinc material. We tested the solder in some porous sections and between the threads. In both cases the paste did not adhere well to the zinc die cast. We tried again on a nickle plated zinc part and got the same results.
Solder Paste on Stainless Steel
We had a question from a customer the other day about using the silver bearing solder paste with stainless steel. Having never tried that yet we figured the best approach would be to test it and see. We got some 302 stainless brackets we use and drilled a bit of a hole in it. Then we used the Pro70 with a torch head to heat it up. It actually worked pretty well. The flux was messy but cleaned up pretty well with a wire brush. We then touched the solder ball on the left side of the photo to the grinder and leveled it off nicely. On the right side you can see after the grinder the color doesn’t quite match but it fills in well and stays attached.
Pro50 Robotic Marshmallow – Roaster?
We have this great Lynxmotion robot for another project and it occurred to us that there might be a good product demo here. So. . .
Reader Ingenuity: Clean Contacts to Improve Connection
After Robert came to us with some great improvement ideas for our rechargeable soldering irons, we just had to share. We’re especially thrilled with his maintainance of the contact points, and you can bet we are looking into his other ideas as well. Here’s his letter:
I have used Wahl (Editor’s note: Wahl = Iso-Tip) Cordless Soldering irons for many years. But the one issue I notice is the push button to press the contacts together to make a connection to the batteries. It seems that there is no positive contact for that connection. In taking the unit apart, there is a plastic button that pushes the contacts together. In making a connection to supply a large amount of current to heat up the tip, I think a knife blade type of connection would work better. I know space is limited, but it could be done. I am a long-time Solidworks user and thought I might be able to model the connection redesign. Even if the iron was a little higher in height as it lays on a flat surface there would be more room for the improved switch contact. I am presently using a Model 7700 which I have altered slightly. I’ve had it for two years and the batteries are still taking a charge. You do have a good product if only there was a better way of making a connection. I noticed that the contact points get corroded/pitted. I cleaned these with a small flat file. The issue you are dealing with is supplying probably more than two amps to heat up the tip and how to make the best connection in a positive way, but the push button is not the best way. Let me know your thoughts on this. Thank you. – Robert
We agree with Robert on his assessment of the current contact arrangement. But before making any significant redesigns we want to give ourselves a few years of really managing the product line and getting to know how we can best improve it. In the mean time, we’d love to learn of any and all improvements you’d make to the line.
Now, without further ado, it’s time to find the contact points. Open up your rechargeable soldering iron by unscrewing the casing so that you’re looking at something like this:
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Locate the contact points and then file away any corrosion to keep the connection clean and your iron working like new.
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It’s always the little things that make a difference, isn’t it? Thanks so much for sharing your insight Robert! What do you guys think? Have improvement ideas for the Iso-Tip line? What do you do to maintain your soldering iron?
